The Gulf   

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“What kind of fish do you catch?” I asked. 

“This time a’ year we mostly get kingfish” said the voice. 

“And how do you fish for them?” I responded, with fingers crossed. 

“By trolling.” Came the answer. 

Bingo! Just what I wanted to hear. I had been trying, without any success, to get a boat in the Captiva or Sanibel area to take me out into the Gulf for a days trolling. I hadn’t tried deep-sea fishing for six years or more and, in my book, the only “proper” way to do deep-sea fishing was to troll. 

I booked the charter. 

The voice on the phone belonged to a crusty old guy called Captain Chuck Skinner and you got the instant impression that this was his boat by god and you’d better do as you were told. He wasn’t belligerent or rude: just had that no-nonsense approach to what he did that told you to know your place and mind your p’s and q’s. 

After some persuasion, my wife Jenny had decided to tag along. Jenny does not like fish and cannot understand my obsession with fishing. But, she thought she fancied a trip in the boat for a day and when she saw Chuck’s boat, she was convinced. 

The boat was immaculate. It was what all sportfishing boats should be but too few of them are. Chuck was meticulous on board; a place for everything and everything in it’s place and Jenny liked that too. She had found a kindred spirit.   

We set off and the boat, the Jeanne Louise, ripped through the waves at an impressive hike. Chuck yelled something about the hull design being far superior to anything else on the water or somesuch. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that what I knew about boats could be written on the back of a stamp using a large felt pen.   

Jenny was smiling and enjoying the run out. In this part of the Gulf, you have to go a long way offshore to get to water of sufficient depth to fish. We were over ten miles from shore and the depth was still only 40 or so feet. Chuck slowed the boat and asked me to take over the steering whilst he rigged the rods. Hmmm, this wasn’t in the plan and I had no earthly idea how to drive the thing. We rolled all over the place as I tried to correct and over-correct the steering. I looked over at Jenny and she had gone very quiet. “I don’t like this,” she said quietly. 

She’ll be fine, I thought.   


      

Chuck rigged up half a dozen ballyhoo baits; two on flat lines to the rear, two on outriggers and two on down riggers. He then came back and took the wheel/con/whatever and the boat stopped lurching about as he expertly started a trolling pattern. I was interested in the bait rigging as all my previous trolling had been with lures (plastic as they are dismissed by some guides). First, the small ballyhoo's bill was snapped off, then a nose cone made out of a wire spiral was fitted over the head and held in place with an elastic band. Two flying treble hooks on wire traces were inserted either side of the bait and finally a plastic squid skirt was slid down over the head of the ballyhoo. 

I was asking him about the chances of action when he exclaimed “There’s a fish right there!” and one of the downrigger rods heeled over. I just stood looking at him, not knowing what to do. “Well, what are you waiting for – lift the goddam rod!” Sheepishly, I lifted the goddam rod and fought the fish.

It came up after a struggle and it was a nice sized barracuda. Chuck lifted it aboard and unhooked it with great care, both in respect for the dentistry and also to preserve the fish’s life. He then lifted it up so that I could get a photo. The first one was in the boat, always a defining moment for the day ahead. I turned around, grinning at Jenny, but she wasn’t looking too well. As soon as we started trolling, though, she brightened up. She'll be fine, I insisted.

The downrigger rod went over again and we were into another fish. I didn’t need encouragement this time and lifted the rod immediately to fight a bigger and stronger fish. After a few searing runs, I had it to the boat. It was our first kingfish, or king mackerel.; a beautiful striped green torpedo with rows of sharp teeth. 

Chuck unhooked it and it slid back into the depths. During this time, Jenny was steering the boat and when I asked her how she was, she merely stared straight ahead, fixedly on the horizon. I retreated to the boat deck and opened a coke. Maybe she won't be fine after all, I started to realise. 

Within minutes of re-starting, the downrigger went over again and this time the reel screamed as though the bearings were burning out. “Looks like we got ourselves a troph-ee,” sang Chuck. 

This was a serious fish. Line was pouring from the reel as it took off towards the horizon. I would fight it close and then it would tear off again. Chuck said that these fish burned lots of reels out and I could well imagine it – the speed was unbelievable and I would never experience anything like it again until, years later, I caught a wahoo

Eventually, it came to the boat and Chuck decided it was a “keeper” and gaffed it. He likes to keep one every once in a while for smoking he said, but I suspect he’s like all of the rest of us in that we all need to keep one every once in a while to remind us of why we do it.  I called to Jenny to take a photo and got a look that would have killed a lesser man. She wasn’t doing well at all now. 

We took another two smaller fish and every time we stopped the boat to fight the fish, Jenny got greener and greener. The last take was from another trophy-sized fish and it tore off into the distance again. I fought it back several times and had it within 30 feet of the boat when for some reason Chuck accelerated the boat. I could see the fish on the surface and knew that I should ease the drag, but I didn’t know how. It shook its head violently twice and was gone. 

It was about the same size as the other one, around the 35-40lbs mark: a nice kingfish. 

I looked round just in time to see Jenny stagger to the side of the boat and lose her lunch over the side. “Time we went back I think,” said Chuck. 

“Thank God for that!” said Jenny. 

Subsequently, Jenny decided that her future lay elsewhere than with me. I can't quite bring myself to think that this was a pivotal moment in our relationship, but you never know...

 

I fished again once more with Chuck, about a year later. I went out on my own this time and he was more talkative and chatty on this trip. He was the type of American that has two main grudges against the Brits: World War Two and the Royal Family, in no particular order of importance. I just nodded along with his sometimes caustic observations, after all it’s always interesting to see us as others do. He’d also had to move his boat to another dock since last time because he had fallen out with the owner of the Sanibel Marina where he had been previously. I could see how Chuck could have several fall-outs in his lifetime. I liked him a lot. 

The first night in his new dock he was burgled and all of his beautiful gear stolen. His rods and reels were all worth a great deal of money and he had to use old gear in the meantime. But what’s a man to do when the insurance won’t pay out? Maybe he had fallen out with them too. 

We didn’t catch much that day, only one king and several barracuda. The wind got up and the seas swelled to well over 8 or 9 feet, which is big enough in Chuck’s 33 foot boat to get you slung around like a Saturday night drunk. I asked him if there was any weather that he wouldn’t consider going out in and, to my amazement, he said, “I wouldn’t go out in this!” 

“So why the hell are we out here?” I replied. “Well,” he said “it’s too late to decide once you’re out here isn’t it! Wanna head back?” he grinned, wolfishly.

The trip back was bumpy and we were regularly soaked by spray crashing over the top of the boat, but Chuck was all confidence and we were soon in calmer waters. 

Chuck told me that he had just sold his house on Captiva for almost a million dollars. He’d bought it years ago before Captiva became a hideaway for the rich and this guy from New York had just up and offered him the money. He added that the guy didn’t really want the house, he only wanted the land and the first thing he would do was bulldoze the house flat and start building another one on the site. 

“Kinda strange feeling that,” confided Chuck “I built that house and raised my kids there. Strange that to someone else it’s just real estate.” 

But a million bucks buys a substantial pension. He told me that he was going to buy a big trailer and tour around the mid-west for a while, catching up with some people that he hadn’t seen in years and then maybe he’d come back and start skippering for another guy on a bigger boat. 

You have to admire a guy starting again like that at well past sixty years old. 

Haven’t seen nor heard of him in three or more years, but I’m sure he’s still falling out with people.

Chic McSherry

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